Makeup with SPF seems like a serious win-win.
But like many two-in-one products (ahem: shampoo-conditioner hybrids), it’s better in concept than in theory.
Technically, the SPF in your foundation is no different than that in your go-to sunscreen, and thus it can help protect your skin from sun damage.
However, there are a few things you should know so you don’t end up with a seriously disturbing sunburn on your face.
Is makeup with SPF as effective as sunscreen?
“To achieve the SPF on the label, you would have to apply about 2 mg of product per square centimeter of skin, or a dollop about the size of a nickel to the face,” says Sonia Batra, M.D., Santa Monica dermatologist and co-host of The Doctors TV show.
This is a big problem, says Batra. “People rarely apply this much and often use less than half this amount when applying sunscreen,” she says. “Women likely apply even less as makeup.”
Plus, the American Academy of Dermatology recommends that you should reapply SPF every two hours when out in the sun to ensure you’re getting the best protection. Think about it—do you completely reapply your foundation (that full nickel-sized amount?) every two hours? Unless you’re Kim K., probs not.
That’s why Batra says most makeup products aren’t applied well enough to fully protect from the sun’s rays on their own.
“I tell my patients that the SPF in makeup is like icing on the cake; foundations and powders that contain SPF are helpful but they should not be their primary sun protection,” she says.
What’s the best way to wear SPF?
Instead of relying on your makeup for sun protection, “I recommend applying a moisturizer with a broad spectrum, SPF 30 sunscreen as a base, rain or shine, and then applying makeup on top,” says Batra. This guarantees your face (and neck) will be protected.
Let the moisturizer sink into skin for a few minutes before applying your makeup. Then, finish with a setting powder, which Batra says will help absorb oil and prevent your SPF from running.
How to wear makeup with SPF
That’s not to say you should just shun makeup with SPF altogether—just know that it’s not meant to replace sunscreen completely.
Batra says if you’re going to buy makeup with SPF, make sure it contains broad spectrum sunscreen—this protects against both UVA and UVB rays. (UVA rays can cause premature aging, she says, while UVB burns the skin. Too much exposure to both can cause skin cancer.)
Additionally, Batra says you should aim for a SPF rating of 15 or higher (SPF 30 is ideal) along with active ingredients like zinc oxide, avobenzone, or ecamsule.
Also: Don’t bother swapping out your go-to bronzer or eyeshadow for one claiming SPF protection. “Your sun protection only equals the highest SPF you are wearing, so an SPF of 30 in your moisturizer, plus an SPF of 15 in your bronzer unfortunately doesn’t mean you are receiving an SPF of 45. It is still an SPF of 30,” explains Batra.
One makeup product that should always have SPF? Lip balm. “Lips have almost no melanin, so they need extra protection from the sun,” says Batra—so protect your pout with a formula with SPF 30. Opt for a waxy, matte finish instead of glossy, high-shine products since they can attract the sun’s rays and worsens burns.
