As if frigid temperatures aren’t depressing enough, a dull complexion often travels with ’em. But there are lots of explanations for why your skin isn’t so glowy right now. Chances are, one of the mistakes below is the culprit. Nix these habits and you’ll have beaming, healthy-looking skin in no time.
1. You’re forgetting to exfoliate.
If you wash your face twice a day, great! But there’s a very crucial step you need to add: exfoliation.
Dryness is the most common cause of dull skin, and exfoliating creates a fresh canvas that allows topical products to penetrate better, says Dr. Hadley King, board-certified dermatologist at SKINNEY Medspa. Just remember to keep the process gentle on your skin to avoid causing inflammation or irritation. Dr. Melanie Palm, board-certified dermatologist and the director of Art of Skin MD, prefers “a chemical exfoliant (alpha and beta hydroxy acids) to physical exfoliants, which may be too harsh.” Try a single-use wipe like First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads ($30, sephora.com), which contain two kinds of alpha-hydroxy acids at levels that are safe for sensitive skin.
2. …or you’re forgetting to moisturize.
On top of exfoliation, your complexion might be calling out for something else: moisture. Dr. Kenneth Howe, dermatologist at Wexler Dermatology, explains the process on a microscopic level: The demands that we place on our skin cause cracks in its surface, which translate as dullness. Using a moisturizer fills in those fissures by adding lipids, the natural fats of the skin, which seal up the gaps between the skin cells, presenting a smooth, reflective surface.
Dr. Palm suggests using moisturizers with ingredients like ceramides, which help repair skin barrier function and improve water retention, and hyaluronic acid, which plumps up skin cells by attracting water to surrounding tissues. IT Cosmetics Confidence in a Cream ($48, sephora.com) is a great choice that contains both.
How you apply it matters too. “Apply your moisturizer in gentle, upward strokes to boost blood circulation and stimulate the cells around your face and neck,” recommends Dr. Debra Luftman, board-certified dermatologist and Simple Advisory Board member. “This will bring oxygen to the surface of your skin, making it look nourished and healthy.”
3. You’re dehydrated — and so is your skin.
Tammie Umbel, founder of Shea Terra Organics, points out that dehydration decreases the volume of blood flow to the skin, making you look “pale and sickly.” Most of us tend to think of dehydration as a short term problem solved by a glass of water, but board-certified dermatologist Dr. Janet Prystowsky encourages viewing skin dehydration as a long-term problem, as consistently failing to get your skin the water it needs can have lasting results.
Dehydration also affects you in ways that go beyond the cosmetic. Skin cells are composed of mostly water, so they operate best in a hydrated environment. That means that they can still perform basic operations when water content is low, but according to Dr. Luftman, this deficiency will manifest in one of three ways: “Dehydrated skin can include epidermal dehydration, dermal dehydration or both. Epidermal (top layer of skin) dehydration is indicated by fine lines. Scales may form in the case of more severe, chronic surface dehydration. Dermal (deep skin) dehydration causes depletion of the dermis and will ultimately result in deeper wrinkles that are visible on the surface of the skin, as well sagging skin.” Long story short: If you don’t want wrinkles, drink up.
4. You’re super stressed.
If none of this has been clicking with you so far, maybe it’s less about what’s going on in your body and more about what’s going on in your brain. Stress plays a large role in brilliance of your skin — or the lack thereof. “Stress causes an increase in cortisol, which can affect blood flow to the skin and skin repair,” says Dr. Luftman. Translation: Whatever deadline, argument or frustration it is you’re holding onto could be what’s standing between you and lustrous skin.
5. You need more sleep, woman.
Anything that keeps you up at night is getting in the way of your best skin, whether it’s stress or not. “Sleep is the body’s restorative time, when your skin cells repair themselves and regenerate,” explains Dr. Palm. “If that period is shortened or altered, skin cells cannot perform at their optimum, leading to circulatory changes including dark eye circles, pallor, dry, flaky, less hydrated skin, and changes in oil production and skin cell exfoliation.” Just one more reason to head to bed early each night.
6. You live in a polluted area.
On top of your own habits, it could be your environment that’s dulling down your skin with air pollutants and UV exposure, as either of those factors can wreak havoc on unprotected skin. Dr. Howe tacked on low humidity and harsh winds as environmental elements that could be causing you problems as well. If you live in a high-smog area, one way to counteract the effects of your environment is by getting some exercise. “Aerobic activity enhances circulation to skin, which helps in nutrient exchange and removal of toxins from our skin cells,” advises Dr. Palm, so add a stop at the gym to your routine and get ready to notice a big difference.
7. You’re a smoker.
Surely you don’t need to be told this again, but smoking is seriously harmful to your skin, in both the long- and short-term. Take it from Dr. Palm: “Carcinogenic substances are extremely detrimental to skin integrity and structure. Cigarette smoking causes collagen breakdown, making skin appear sallow, waxy, and wrinkled over time.” You know all this, but seriously — try to get help, your body will thank you.
8. You’re OD-ing on matte makeup.
Other things that might be affecting your skin dullness are slightly less damaging. Dr. Palm urges avoiding over-mattifying cosmetics, which can reduce that glowy appearance, as well as a makeup remover containing alcohol. Try switching to a gentle cold cream and a makeup remover pad, which will remove makeup and add moisturize at the same time.
9. You’re not eating a healthy diet.
The age-old saying “you are what you eat” very much applies here, as what you put into your body is reflected in your complexion. Our experts have come armed with foods to seek out — and foods to avoid. Dr. Palm urges us away from salty and processed foods — they “enhance tissue swelling through fluid retention, which retards ideal light reflection.” Nutritionist Paula Simpson recommends steering clear of the “typical Western diet” all together, which in her own words includes ingredients that are “high in sugar and fat, devoid of fiber, antioxidants, high-quality protein and essential fatty acids,” all major culprits when it comes to dull skin.
Our experts reassured us that there are plenty of options out there to please your stomach as well as your skin too. Dr. Howe, points us toward antioxidant-rich blueberries, cranberries, red beans, and pinto beans, while Dr. Palm advocates for good-fat treats like avocados and walnuts, as well as citrus fruits and kiwi, which contain Vitamin C, known to boost collagen growth. And when it comes to occasional splurges, while some experts would prefer you to skip alcohol, if you’re treating yourself, Mariola Barczewska, Esthetician at Haven Spa, recommends toward sulfide-free red wine and straight shots neat or on the rocks, which don’t affect your metabolism the way a sugary mixer might.
