For many of us, smearing on foundation or dabbing concealer over our eye-bags is as much a part of our daily routine as brushing our teeth.
But did you know there’s a delicate art to it? Get it right and it can be an instant anti-ager. The secret? Altering the ratio of foundation to concealer as you age.
Younger women should use mostly foundation to even out skin tone and give a glow. But, at a certain time of life, you should ditch it entirely, as it will only sit in and define wrinkles. The perfect shade of cleverly applied concealer, on the other hand, can lift and plump mature skin.
‘The more even-looking your skin, the more youthful you’ll seem,’ says make-up artist Oonagh Connor (oonaghconnor.com). ‘Getting the right ratio is an under-used weapon in the fight against ageing.’
Follow her guide to the perfect make-up balance to wind back the clock . . .
20s
Ratio: 90 per cent foundation, 10 per cent concealer.
Skin problem: I’m always astonished by young girls who pile on make-up, cloaking their natural luminosity. At this age, your face is virtually perfect: relatively unlined with the odd spot.
What to do: Dot a light foundation in the middle of the forehead, down the nose and on the cheeks and chin, then blend using a brush or your fingers.
Put a little concealer on your brush or finger and dab directly over any spots or blemishes until they vanish.
Products: You can get away with using cheaper products that don’t offer thick coverage.
30s
Ratio: 85 per cent foundation, 15 per cent concealer.
Skin problem: Collagen production slows down in this decade, so you may find lines develop around the eyes and mouth, while sun spots, open pores and eye-bags start to appear.
What to do: Use a little more foundation to blend outwards around the jawline and on the forehead. You may need to dab concealer under the eyes and on lids as a base for shadow (the thin, delicate skin here creases more), as well as on blemishes.
Products: Try light, fluid products that won’t settle in lines.
40s
Ratio: 80 per cent foundation, 20 per cent concealer.
Skin problem: Wrinkles deepen and skin becomes drier as your hormone balance changes and perimenopause (or menopause) starts.
What to do: Your choice of foundation really matters now. You need a heavier version that gives excellent coverage, without making you look older. Blend this further outwards to the jawline.
I’m also a big fan of yellow-based concealers, which counteract dark circles — pink ones (to brighten) can look a little grey. Again, look for a thicker product than in your younger years.
Blend in at the base of the nose, under the eyes, on the eyelids and over any stubborn age spots.
50s
Ratio: 75 per cent foundation, 25 per cent concealer.
Skin problem: After the menopause, skin is far drier and rougher. You might have more sun spots, eyes may be puffy with dark circles and any thread veins become more obvious.
What to do: Getting concealer shade and location right is key. For blue-tinged circles, use a yellow-based product one shade lighter than your skin tone. In fact, I’d recommend using two shades at this age: a lighter one to hide lines and a dark one to contour.
Run a lighter concealer above the jawline and a darker one along the bone, then blend the lighter one from the base of the nose to the mouth.
60s
Ratio: 70 per cent foundation, 30 per cent concealer.
Skin problem: Colour fades and wrinkles deepen, particularly lines from the nose to mouth and mouth to chin. Eyes may look hooded and age spots will darken.
What to do: First, apply a primer to give moisture and an extra layer of coverage. Don’t be tempted to use moisturiser on dry skin, as make-up will just slide off.
Using a foundation that’s a warmer shade than you’ve applied previously, blend out from the centre of your face.
At this age, it might be worth investing in a bespoke concealer mixed to match your skin tone Use a lighter concealer along the brow bone to detract from hooded eyes and dab into lines running from mouth to chin. A darker shade can be used to contour.
70s
Ratio: 100 pc concealer.
Skin problem: You are likely to have deep wrinkles and skin conditions including extreme dryness.
What to do: Skin will look fresher if you dial down your make-up — it may be time to ditch foundation. Instead, a light coverage of tinted moisturiser or BB cream is far more flattering.
Next, go over any areas of concern with a good concealer. In addition to all the previously mentioned areas, run concealer down the length of your nose to reflect yet more light.
